Russell Cave National Monument - Bridgeport, AL

Our oldest son, Remiel, wants to visit every national park in the country.  We’re off to a good start having gone to Rocky Mountain, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Arches, Zion, Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, and Petrified Forest National Parks.  All of those were visited on an epic one-month road trip in the summer of 2012.  Since then, we’ve also visited Great Smoky Mountain and Shenandoah National Parks, and the Chickamauga and Shiloh National Battlefields. 

During our last Thanksgiving break, we decided to take a day trip down to Russell Cave National Monument.  It’s not too far from our home in Lynchburg, sitting on the Alabama side of the Alabama-Tennessee border near Bridgeport, AL. 

Our day started with a journey to Manchester, TN to stop at the Cracker Barrell restaurant to have breakfast.  After getting loaded up, we jumped on Interstate 24 and headed south towards Chattanooga, TN.  Chattanooga wouldn't be our destination as we would jump off the interstate at the South Pittsburg exit and take US Highway 73 south towards Bridgeport.  After several miles, we followed the signs from highway 72 to county road 75 and then county road 98 which lead us to the entrance of the national monument.  This is a pretty southern rural drive passing small towns and mountains of the southern Appalachian range. 

Upon entering the park, our first stop was the Grosvenor Visitor Center.  Here we learned a little about the park and some of the history of the inhabitants of Russell Cave. 

First, the park is open almost all year round from about 8:00 am to 4:30 pm. The exceptions are Christmas and New Year's Day.  There is no entrance fee to Russell Cave and the facilities are rather bare.  There is a picnic area, the Visitor's Center and some hiking trails.  This is a small, fairly unassuming park, consisting only of 310 acres, so don't expect big.  Russell Cave is also listed on the National Register of Historic places being placed there on October 15, 1966.

At the visitor's center, we learned a little about the history of the park and its inhabitants.  The cave itself was cut out of limestone by a stream that travels within.   About 9,000 to 12,000 years ago, the collapse of a cavern roof beneath a hillside created a sinkhole and exposed Russell Cave. The stream still runs through part of the cave, but due to the severe drought experienced in the Southeast during the fall of 2016, it was not flowing during our visit.  

Russell Cave provides the most thorough records of prehistoric culture in the Southeast. Archaeological field surveys have uncovered the records of the cave's occupants. Around two tons of artifacts have been recovered from the site. These discoveries include charcoal from fires, bones of animals (as remains of hunted game and as bone tools), spear and arrow points, sherds of pottery, and the remains of several adults and children buried at the site. The bodies, ranging in age from infant to 50 years, were buried in shallow pits in the cave floor and were not accompanied by artifacts.

The first relics were discovered in 1953 when four members from the Tennessee Archeological Society began digging in the cave. This first excavation reached a depth of six feet. When they realized the extent and importance of the site, the team contacted the Smithsonian Institution which conducted three seasons (1956–1958) of archeological digs in cooperation with the National Geographic Society reaching a depth of more than 32 feet. An additional excavation was performed in 1962 by the National Park Service to a depth of 10.5 feet. 

The evidence uncovered during the excavations indicated that human habitation of the cave began around 10,000 years ago. These earliest inhabitants were most likely hunter-gatherers and probably did not occupy the cave year round.  With constant temperature and shelter from north winds, Russell Cave was probably a decent place to stay during the winters. During the Woodland Period (about 1000 BCE to 50 CE), the first signs of pottery and rudimentary agriculture were discovered. Even with these changes (from use of the atlatl to bows and arrows), Russell Cave was probably still just a winter camp for a small band of people. 

After the Woodland period, use of the cave as a semi-permanent dwelling began to abate.  There were few signs of long-term usage after the original inhabitants departed around 1000 CE. Cherokee Indians and  European settlers no doubt used the cave occasionally, but the major use had ended. 

Russell Cave was named after Colonel Thomas Russell, a veteran of the American Revolutionary War from North Carolina, who owned the property. The surrounding land called Doran's Cove is named after Major James Doran, the brother-in-law of Russell and the original owner of the land. The land was purchased by the National Geographic Society and donated to the American people. The area was designated as a National Monument in 1961 during the presidency of John F. Kennedy.

After spending some time at the Visitor's Center, we began the walk back to the Cave.  The walkway is made up of a wooden boardwalk and is handicapped accessible.

The Cave is located at the base of a rather large mountain.  The left side of the cave is where the stream would normally flow in wetter seasons, the right side of the cave is elevated and was used by the inhabitants as a living area.

Upon entering the cave proper, it was rather disappointing.  Orange snow fencing is set up around some areas that are apparently in the process of excavation.

The living area of the cave is also surprisingly small. I doubt it would be able to hold more than two dozen inhabitants.

View from the cave mouth

 After finishing the cave visit, we decided to take a stroll on some of the trails cut into the hillside above the cave.  Our first stop was at a more recent sinkhole.

We continued our walk along the gentle trail until we found a good spot for some family pictures.

After picture time, Zachary was getting tired, so we decided to head back to the car and continue our day trip.

Remiel, on the other hand, was having a great time.

A few more pictures and we were back at the Visitor's Center.

Although the area is pretty and the cave unique, this was kind of a disappointing stop.  Maybe coming back in the summer when there are more activities/staff might make a better stop.  It was a pretty fall day in northern Alabama though.

If you want more information, you can visit Russell Cave's Facebook page or the National Park Service's web page.